Discovering Yonne (Department 89)
Updated: Oct 8
Introduction
Yonne (department 89) is one of the most attractive yet often overlooked departments in northern-central France. Located in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region, it combines beautiful countryside, historic market towns, world-famous vineyards and excellent transport links to Paris. It offers a slower pace of life than the capital while remaining surprisingly well connected.
For English-speaking buyers, retirees and remote workers, Yonne provides an appealing balance between affordability, heritage and convenience. Whether you're considering moving permanently, buying a holiday home, retiring in France or establishing a small business, Yonne deserves serious consideration.
At a Glance
Feature | Information |
Region | Bourgogne-Franche-Comté |
Historic name | Burgundy (Bourgogne) |
Department number | 89 |
Department capital | Auxerre |
Largest towns | Auxerre, Sens, Joigny, Avallon, Migennes |
Population | Around 340,000 |
Area | Approximately 7,430 km² |
Climate | Temperate continental with warm summers and cool winters |
Best suited for | Retirees, families, wine lovers, commuters, remote workers, second-home owners |
Is a car recommended? | Yes, especially outside larger towns |
English-speaking community | Small but established, with growing international residents |
Lifestyle summary | Historic, relaxed, rural with excellent access to Paris |
Why Choose Yonne?
Lifestyle
Living in Yonne offers a comfortable balance between rural France and modern convenience. Days revolve around markets, cafés, vineyards and community events rather than heavy traffic and crowded streets.
Many people appreciate the slower pace without feeling isolated.
Community
While predominantly French, Yonne has welcomed increasing numbers of British, Dutch, Belgian and other international residents.
Local associations, village fêtes and sporting clubs make integration easier for newcomers willing to embrace French life.
Scenery
The department offers remarkable variety including:
Rolling farmland
River valleys
Vineyards
Ancient forests
Limestone cliffs
Medieval villages
Canal paths
The landscapes change dramatically between seasons.
Accessibility
One of Yonne's biggest advantages is its location.
Benefits include:
Around 1½ to 2 hours from Paris by train or road
Easy motorway access
Excellent rail connections
Convenient for travelling throughout northern France
This makes it ideal for people who want rural living without losing access to major cities.
Food
Yonne sits within one of France's finest gastronomic regions.
Expect:
Outstanding local wines
Traditional Burgundian cuisine
Weekly farmers' markets
Artisan cheeses
Fresh produce
Independent bakeries and butchers
Culture
History is everywhere.
You'll find:
Medieval churches
Roman remains
Historic abbeys
Renaissance architecture
Traditional festivals
Wine celebrations
Local music and arts events
Property
Compared with many better-known areas of France, Yonne often provides excellent value.
Buyers can choose from:
Village cottages
Renovation projects
Farmhouses
Stone family homes
Townhouses
Country estates
Prices tend to increase around the vineyards and the most desirable historic towns.
Pace of Life
Life generally moves at a relaxed rhythm.
People value:
Long lunches
Community events
Outdoor living
Local shopping
Traditional markets
Strong neighbourhood relationships
Yonne Is It Right For You?
Lifestyle | Rating | Why |
Retirees | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Peaceful lifestyle, healthcare, good transport and attractive villages. |
Families | ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ | Good schools and safe communities, although rural areas require more driving. |
Second-home owners | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Easy access from Paris and northern Europe makes weekend visits practical. |
Entrepreneurs | ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ | Opportunities in tourism, food, hospitality, property and online businesses. |
Remote workers | ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ | Fibre broadband continues expanding, though speeds vary in rural areas. |
Outdoor lifestyle | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Walking, cycling, boating and nature are major attractions. |
City lifestyle | ⭐⭐☆☆☆ | Auxerre offers amenities, but this is not a department for major city living. |
Popular Places to Live
Auxerre
The department's capital sits on the River Yonne and offers historic streets, shopping, restaurants and excellent services.
Ideal for
Professionals
Retirees
Families
Advantages
Largest choice of amenities
Good rail links
Beautiful historic centre
Healthcare facilities
Things to consider
Higher property prices than many rural areas.
Sens
One of France's oldest cathedral cities, Sens offers excellent transport connections to Paris.
Ideal for
Commuters
Families
Professionals
Advantages
Fast rail links
Excellent shopping
Historic centre
Good schools
Things to consider
Busier atmosphere than much of the department.
Joigny
A charming riverside town with attractive architecture and a welcoming atmosphere.
Ideal for
Retirees
Couples
Remote workers
Advantages
Character properties
Good restaurants
Railway station
Walkable centre
Things to consider
Smaller employment market.
Avallon
Located close to the Morvan Regional Natural Park, Avallon combines history with outdoor living.
Ideal for
Nature lovers
Families
Retirees
Advantages
Historic town
Beautiful scenery
Strong community
Things to consider
Winters can feel quieter.
Chablis
Globally famous for its exceptional white wines.
Ideal for
Wine enthusiasts
Second-home buyers
Hospitality businesses
Advantages
International reputation
Attractive stone buildings
Tourism opportunities
Things to consider
Property prices are higher than surrounding villages.
Vézelay
One of France's most famous hilltop villages and an important pilgrimage destination.
Ideal for
Retirees
Artists
History lovers
Advantages
Stunning architecture
Strong cultural identity
Beautiful surroundings
Things to consider
Tourism creates seasonal fluctuations.
Saint-Fargeau
Known for its impressive château and relaxed rural setting.
Ideal for
Families
Rural buyers
Holiday homeowners
Advantages
Affordable property
Friendly atmosphere
Historic surroundings
Things to consider
Limited services compared with larger towns.
Cost of Living
Compared with many parts of France, Yonne represents good overall value.
Property affordability
Outside the vineyard areas and larger towns, buyers can often find spacious houses with gardens at prices significantly below many southern regions.
Renovation opportunities remain available throughout the department.
Shopping
Most daily essentials are reasonably priced, with supermarkets available in larger towns alongside excellent local markets and independent food producers.
Utilities
Utility costs are generally comparable with the French national average, although older stone properties may require additional heating during winter.
Eating out
Traditional cafés, bistros and village restaurants provide good value, while Michelin-starred dining is also available for special occasions.
General value for money
Yonne offers an attractive combination of affordable housing, reasonable living costs and excellent quality of life, making it especially appealing for retirees and second-home owners.
Healthcare
Healthcare provision is generally very good.
Main hospitals
Centre Hospitalier d'Auxerre
Centre Hospitalier de Sens
Hospital services in Avallon
Joigny Hospital
Healthcare availability
Most residents have good access to GPs, dentists and pharmacies, although appointments in rural areas may take longer.
Access to specialists
Specialists are mainly based in Auxerre and Sens, with larger regional hospitals in Dijon and Paris providing additional services.
Pharmacies
Every sizeable town has pharmacies, many operating rota systems for emergency access.
General considerations
Registering with a local GP soon after arriving is recommended, particularly if moving permanently.
Education
Families have access to a broad range of educational facilities.
Schools
State primary schools
Secondary schools
Sixth-form colleges
Colleges
Auxerre and Sens provide further education and vocational training.
International options
There are no major international schools within Yonne itself, although bilingual and international education is available in nearby Dijon and Paris.
Language schools
French language classes are available through local associations, adult education centres and private tutors.
Getting Around
Airports
The nearest major airports include:
Paris-Orly
Paris Charles de Gaulle
Dijon (limited services)
Rail
Excellent rail services connect:
Auxerre
Sens
Joigny
Migennes
Many routes provide direct or easy connections to Paris.
Roads
Major routes include:
A6 motorway
A5 motorway nearby
Good departmental road network
Public transport
Regional buses serve most towns, although services become less frequent in rural villages.
Is a car recommended?
Yes.
While larger towns are walkable and rail services are good, a car makes everyday life considerably easier, especially in villages.
Weekly Markets
Town | Main Market Day |
Auxerre | Tuesday and Friday |
Sens | Monday |
Joigny | Wednesday and Saturday |
Avallon | Saturday |
Chablis | Sunday (seasonal producers also attend) |
Saint-Fargeau | Friday |
Migennes | Thursday |
Toucy | Saturday |
Local Food & Drink
Yonne is famous for producing some of Burgundy's finest food and drink.
Specialities include:
Chablis wines
Irancy wines
Crémant de Bourgogne
Gougères (cheese pastries)
Boeuf Bourguignon
Escargots de Bourgogne
Jambon persillé
Époisses cheese
Soumaintrain cheese
Dijon mustard (widely available throughout the region)
Blackcurrant products
Artisan breads and pastries
Things to Do
Historic sites
Vézelay Basilica
Saint-Fargeau Château
Auxerre Cathedral
Sens Cathedral
Medieval town centres
Outdoor activities
Walking
Cycling
Canoeing
Fishing
Horse riding
Canal boating
Museums
Musée Saint-Germain
Local wine museums
Regional history museums
Festivals
Wine festivals
Music festivals
Medieval celebrations
Village fêtes
Christmas markets
Nature
The nearby Morvan Regional Natural Park provides exceptional opportunities for hiking, wildlife watching and outdoor recreation.
Family attractions
Families enjoy:
Animal parks
Adventure parks
Historic castles
River activities
Cycling routes
Seasonal events
Good to Know Before You Move
Language
French is essential for daily life outside the main tourist areas. Learning the language will significantly improve integration.
Rural living
Many villages are peaceful but have limited shops and services, meaning careful planning is important.
Internet
Fibre broadband is expanding steadily, although connection speeds can still vary depending on location.
Seasonal tourism
Tourism is concentrated around wine areas and famous heritage sites, while most of the department remains relatively tranquil year-round.
Climate
Summers are warm and pleasant. Winters can be cold, occasionally with frost or snowfall, particularly in higher areas.
Community life
Joining local clubs, volunteering or attending village events is one of the best ways to build friendships and become part of the community.
Find Trusted English-Speaking Businesses
Whether you're living here, moving here, retiring here or simply spending part of the year here, finding reliable local services can make settling in much easier.
Biz Où? helps you discover trusted English-speaking businesses across France, including property professionals, tradespeople, accountants, healthcare providers, legal services, gardeners, cleaners, holiday services, financial advisers, pet care, marketing specialists and many more.
Every listing is designed to help you connect with businesses that understand the needs of English-speaking residents, making it easier to build your new life in one of France's most popular departments.
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