Discovering Côte-d'Or (Department 21)
Updated: Oct 8
Introduction
Located in the heart of eastern France, Côte-d'Or is one of the most recognisable departments in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region. Internationally famous for its prestigious vineyards, historic towns and exceptional gastronomy, it offers far more than fine wine. From rolling countryside and medieval villages to vibrant cities and peaceful rural communities, Côte-d'Or combines a high quality of life with excellent transport links and strong public services.
Whether you're considering moving to Côte-d'Or, retiring in France, buying a second home or establishing a business, the department provides an attractive balance between rural charm and modern convenience. It particularly appeals to people looking for authentic French living without sacrificing accessibility.
Côte-d'Or At a Glance
Feature | Information |
Region | Bourgogne-Franche-Comté |
Historic name | Burgundy (Bourgogne) |
Department number | 21 |
Department capital | Dijon |
Largest towns | Dijon, Beaune, Chenôve, Talant, Montbard, Semur-en-Auxois |
Population | Approximately 540,000 |
Area | 8,763 km² |
Climate | Continental with warm summers and cool winters |
Best suited for | Retirees, professionals, wine lovers, families, entrepreneurs |
Is a car recommended? | Yes, especially outside Dijon |
English-speaking community | Moderate, particularly around Dijon and Beaune |
Lifestyle summary | Historic, gastronomic, relaxed, cultured and well-connected |
Why Choose Côte-d'Or?
Côte-d'Or offers one of France's most balanced lifestyles. While many people know the department for its world-famous vineyards, residents enjoy excellent healthcare, reliable infrastructure, attractive towns and beautiful countryside.
Lifestyle
Life moves at a comfortable pace. Dijon provides all the facilities of a modern regional capital, while the surrounding villages offer peaceful country living with strong local communities.
Many residents enjoy:
Weekly farmers' markets
Café culture
Excellent restaurants
Cycling and walking
Local festivals
Vineyard landscapes
Strong community events throughout the year
Community
The department has a welcoming atmosphere, particularly in smaller towns where local associations play an important role.
Although English is not widely spoken outside the main tourist areas, newcomers who make an effort to learn French generally integrate well.
Scenery
The landscape varies considerably across the department.
You'll find:
Rolling vineyards
Dense forests
Limestone valleys
Agricultural plains
Historic villages
Rivers and canals
Nature parks
The diversity makes the department attractive throughout the year.
Accessibility
One of Côte-d'Or's biggest strengths is its central location.
Residents benefit from:
Fast TGV trains to Paris
Easy motorway access
Good regional rail services
Connections to Switzerland and Germany
Nearby international airports
This makes it particularly appealing for second-home owners and people who travel regularly.
Food
Côte-d'Or sits at the heart of Burgundy's world-famous culinary tradition.
Local produce includes:
Mustard
Burgundy beef
Escargots
Cheese
Charolais beef
Blackcurrants
Exceptional wines
Food markets are excellent, with fresh local produce available throughout the year.
Culture
History is everywhere.
The department boasts:
Medieval architecture
Renaissance buildings
Roman remains
UNESCO World Heritage vineyards
Museums
Music festivals
Wine celebrations
Property
Property ranges from city apartments in Dijon to renovated stone farmhouses, village homes and vineyard properties.
Prices vary significantly:
Dijon commands higher prices.
Wine villages are often expensive.
Rural areas remain relatively affordable.
Pace of Life
Outside Dijon, life is generally relaxed without feeling isolated.
Most towns offer essential services while maintaining a distinctly French way of life.
Côte-d'Or Is It Right For You?
Lifestyle | Rating | Why |
Retirees | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Excellent healthcare, beautiful surroundings and relaxed pace of life. |
Families | ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ | Good schools, safe towns and plenty of outdoor activities. |
Second-home owners | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Easy access from Paris and northern Europe with attractive villages. |
Entrepreneurs | ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ | Strong tourism, food, wine and professional sectors create opportunities. |
Remote workers | ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ | Reliable internet in most areas and excellent transport connections. |
Outdoor lifestyle | ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ | Cycling, hiking, forests and canal paths are abundant. |
City lifestyle | ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ | Dijon offers culture, shopping and nightlife while remaining manageable. |
Popular Places to Live
Dijon
Description
The regional capital combines historic charm with modern city living.
Ideal for
Professionals
Families
Remote workers
Students
Advantages
Excellent healthcare
TGV connections
Universities
Shopping
Cultural life
Things to consider
Property is among the department's most expensive.
Beaune
Description
A beautiful historic town famous for wine and gastronomy.
Ideal for
Retirees
Wine enthusiasts
Second-home owners
Advantages
Stunning architecture
Excellent restaurants
International reputation
Friendly atmosphere
Things to consider
Tourism can make summers busy.
Semur-en-Auxois
Description
A picturesque medieval town surrounded by countryside.
Ideal for
Retirees
Families
Remote workers
Advantages
Attractive historic centre
Good local services
Lower property prices
Things to consider
Fewer employment opportunities.
Montbard
Description
A practical market town with strong rail connections.
Ideal for
Commuters
Families
Advantages
TGV station
Affordable housing
Good local amenities
Things to consider
Less vibrant cultural scene than Dijon.
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Description
A celebrated wine town in the heart of Burgundy.
Ideal for
Wine lovers
Entrepreneurs
Second-home owners
Advantages
Beautiful vineyards
Excellent restaurants
Strong tourism economy
Things to consider
Property near vineyards can be costly.
Châtillon-sur-Seine
Description
A peaceful northern town surrounded by forests and rivers.
Ideal for
Nature lovers
Retirees
Advantages
Quiet lifestyle
Affordable homes
Access to national parks
Things to consider
Limited public transport.
Auxonne
Description
A riverside town with military history and good transport links.
Ideal for
Families
Professionals
Advantages
Historic centre
Schools
Easy access to Dijon
Things to consider
Limited nightlife.
Cost of Living
Compared with many popular parts of southern France, Côte-d'Or offers good value.
Property affordability
Dijon has the highest prices.
Wine villages command premium values.
Rural villages remain comparatively affordable.
Renovation projects are widely available.
Shopping
Supermarkets are plentiful, while local markets offer excellent fresh produce. Everyday shopping costs are broadly comparable with much of France.
Utilities
Heating costs can be higher during colder winters, particularly in older stone houses.
Eating out
The department is famous for gastronomy, with options ranging from affordable village cafés to Michelin-starred restaurants.
General value for money
Residents benefit from excellent public services and infrastructure, making Côte-d'Or good value despite some premium property areas.
Healthcare
Healthcare provision is one of the department's strengths.
Main hospitals
Dijon University Hospital
Beaune Hospital Centre
Semur-en-Auxois Hospital
Montbard Hospital
Healthcare availability
Most towns have GPs, dentists and pharmacies.
Access to specialists
Dijon provides a wide range of specialist medical services, with additional facilities available in neighbouring departments.
Pharmacies
Almost every town has at least one pharmacy, with emergency services available when required.
General healthcare considerations
Waiting times vary depending on speciality, but healthcare standards are consistently high.
Education
Families moving to Côte-d'Or have access to a comprehensive education system.
Schools
The department offers numerous nursery, primary and secondary schools.
Colleges and universities
Dijon is home to the University of Burgundy, attracting students from across France and overseas.
International options
A small number of bilingual and international education opportunities are available around Dijon.
Language schools
French language courses are available through local associations, adult education centres and private providers.
Getting Around
Airports
Nearby airports include:
Dijon Bourgogne Airport (limited commercial services)
Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport
Geneva Airport
Paris airports via TGV
Rail
Excellent rail connections include:
TGV to Paris
Regional TER services
Connections across eastern France
Roads
Major motorways provide easy access to Paris, Lyon, Switzerland and Germany.
Public transport
Dijon has an excellent tram and bus network.
Elsewhere, buses connect many towns, although services become less frequent in rural areas.
Is a car recommended?
Yes.
A car provides far greater flexibility, especially for exploring villages and rural communities.
Weekly Markets
Town | Main Market Day |
Dijon | Tuesday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday |
Beaune | Saturday |
Semur-en-Auxois | Sunday |
Montbard | Friday |
Châtillon-sur-Seine | Saturday |
Auxonne | Friday |
Nuits-Saint-Georges | Friday |
Local Food & Drink
Côte-d'Or is one of France's gastronomic highlights.
Specialities include:
Boeuf Bourguignon
Escargots de Bourgogne
Jambon Persillé
Gougères
Dijon mustard
Époisses cheese
Blackcurrant products (Crème de Cassis)
Pain d'épices
Charolais beef
Famous wines include:
Gevrey-Chambertin
Vosne-Romanée
Meursault
Corton
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Pommard
Beaune wines
Things to Do
Historic sites
Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy
Hospices de Beaune
Abbaye de Fontenay
Château de Bussy-Rabutin
Outdoor activities
Cycling the Route des Grands Crus
Walking trails
Canal boating
Fishing
Horse riding
Museums
Museum of Fine Arts, Dijon
Mustard Museum
Wine museums
Archaeological collections
Festivals
Wine festivals
Gastronomy events
Music festivals
Christmas markets
Nature
Morvan gateway
Forests
Rivers
Burgundy Canal
Regional nature reserves
Family attractions
Animal parks
Adventure centres
Swimming lakes
Cycling routes
Historic castles
Good to Know Before You Move
Language
French is essential for daily life outside the main tourist centres.
Rural living
Many villages offer peace and character but may have fewer shops and services.
Internet
Most towns enjoy reliable fibre broadband, although speeds should always be checked before buying rural property.
Seasonal tourism
Wine tourism creates busy periods around Beaune and the Côte de Nuits, while most other areas remain relatively calm.
Climate
Expect warm summers, colourful autumns, cold winters and pleasant springs.
Community life
Joining local clubs, sports groups or village associations is one of the best ways to integrate into the community.
Find Trusted English-Speaking Businesses
Whether you're living here, moving here, retiring here or simply spending part of the year here, finding reliable local services can make settling in much easier.
Biz Où? helps you discover trusted English-speaking businesses across France, including property professionals, tradespeople, accountants, healthcare providers, legal services, gardeners, cleaners, holiday services, financial advisers, pet care, marketing specialists and many more.
Every listing is designed to help you connect with businesses that understand the needs of English-speaking residents, making it easier to build your new life in one of France's most popular departments.
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