Discovering Charente-Maritime (Department 17)
Updated: Oct 8
Introduction
Located on France's Atlantic coast in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, Charente-Maritime (Department 17) is one of the country's most desirable coastal departments. Combining historic towns, long sandy beaches, picturesque islands, traditional fishing villages and a mild oceanic climate, it offers an attractive balance between relaxed seaside living and modern convenience.
Whether you're considering moving to Charente-Maritime, retiring in Charente-Maritime, buying a holiday home or establishing a business, the department offers an excellent quality of life. It appeals to retirees seeking sunshine and coastal walks, families looking for safe communities, entrepreneurs attracted by tourism and hospitality, and remote workers wanting reliable infrastructure with a slower pace of life.
Charente-Maritime At a Glance
Feature | Information |
Region | Nouvelle-Aquitaine |
Historic name | Aunis and Saintonge |
Department number | 17 |
Department capital | La Rochelle |
Largest towns | La Rochelle, Rochefort, Saintes, Royan, Aytré, Tonnay-Charente |
Population | Approximately 665,000 |
Area | 6,864 km² |
Climate | Mild Atlantic climate with warm summers and relatively mild winters |
Best suited for | Retirees, families, second-home owners, sailors, outdoor enthusiasts, entrepreneurs |
Is a car recommended? | Yes, particularly outside the larger towns |
English-speaking community | Well established, especially around La Rochelle, Royan and the coast |
Lifestyle summary | Coastal living, relaxed pace, excellent seafood, historic towns and outdoor activities |
Why Choose Charente-Maritime?
Charente-Maritime consistently ranks among France's most attractive coastal departments thanks to its excellent climate, attractive coastline and high quality of life.
Lifestyle
Life here revolves around the sea. Outdoor cafés, marinas, markets and beaches all contribute to a relaxed atmosphere. Even inland, life tends to be peaceful, with traditional villages and rolling countryside.
Residents enjoy an emphasis on fresh food, local markets and spending time outdoors throughout much of the year.
Community
The department has welcomed international residents for decades.
Many English-speaking residents live around:
La Rochelle
Royan
Île de Ré
Saintes
Rochefort
Although learning French remains important, newcomers often find established expat groups, clubs and associations that make settling in easier.
Scenery
Charente-Maritime offers remarkable variety.
You'll find:
Atlantic coastline
Sandy beaches
Salt marshes
Pine forests
Vineyards
Estuaries
Historic ports
Nature reserves
Charming countryside
The famous islands—including Île de Ré, Île d'Oléron and Île d'Aix—each have their own distinct character.
Accessibility
One of the department's biggest strengths is its accessibility.
It offers:
High-speed rail connections
Motorway access
Regional airports nearby
Ferry services
Easy driving distance to Bordeaux and Nantes
La Rochelle provides excellent transport links while still maintaining a manageable size.
Food
Seafood is naturally a highlight.
Specialities include:
Oysters
Mussels
Fresh fish
Prawns
Pineau des Charentes
Cognac (nearby production areas)
Goat's cheese
Charentais melon
Local wines
Weekly markets ensure excellent access to fresh local produce.
Culture
The department has a rich maritime history.
Throughout the year you'll discover:
Music festivals
Maritime celebrations
Art exhibitions
Historic forts
Roman heritage
Coastal traditions
Traditional markets
La Rochelle is particularly known for its cultural calendar.
Property
Property varies considerably.
Options include:
City apartments
Coastal villas
Traditional stone houses
Village cottages
Modern developments
Rural farmhouses
Prime coastal areas command higher prices, while inland villages often offer better value.
Pace of Life
Outside the summer tourist season, life becomes noticeably calmer.
Many residents appreciate:
Less traffic
Relaxed communities
Outdoor living
Café culture
Walking and cycling
Easy access to nature
Charente-Maritime Is It Right For You?
Lifestyle | Rating | Why |
Retirees | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Excellent healthcare, mild climate and relaxed coastal lifestyle. |
Families | ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ | Good schools, safe communities and outdoor activities, although housing near the coast can be expensive. |
Second-home owners | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Strong holiday appeal, good accessibility and attractive coastal property market. |
Entrepreneurs | ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ | Tourism, hospitality, marine industries and professional services provide opportunities. |
Remote workers | ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆ | Reliable broadband in most populated areas and an excellent work-life balance. |
Outdoor lifestyle | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sailing, cycling, walking, surfing and beaches are all on the doorstep. |
City lifestyle | ⭐⭐⭐☆☆ | La Rochelle offers urban amenities, but the department is primarily known for coastal and rural living. |
Popular Places to Live
La Rochelle
Description
A vibrant historic port city combining maritime heritage with modern living.
Ideal for
Professionals
Retirees
Families
Remote workers
Advantages
Excellent restaurants
Marina
TGV station
University
Healthcare
Cycling infrastructure
Things to consider
Property prices are among the highest in western France.
Royan
Description
A popular seaside town known for beaches and post-war architecture.
Ideal for
Retirees
Holiday homeowners
Advantages
Beautiful coastline
Relaxed atmosphere
Strong amenities
Things to consider
Tourism significantly increases during summer.
Saintes
Description
A historic inland town with Roman heritage and year-round activity.
Ideal for
Families
Professionals
Retirees
Advantages
Lower property prices
Good healthcare
Strong shopping facilities
Things to consider
Further from the beaches.
Rochefort
Description
A naval town with attractive architecture and growing popularity.
Ideal for
Families
Professionals
Entrepreneurs
Advantages
Historic centre
Affordable housing
Good transport
Things to consider
Less lively than La Rochelle.
Île de Ré
Description
One of France's most prestigious island locations.
Ideal for
Luxury second homes
Retirement
Advantages
Exceptional scenery
Cycling
Beaches
Charming villages
Things to consider
Very high property prices and busy summers.
Île d'Oléron
Description
A larger island with a more relaxed atmosphere than Île de Ré.
Ideal for
Outdoor enthusiasts
Families
Holiday homeowners
Advantages
Beaches
Forests
Cycling
Surfing
Things to consider
Seasonal economy.
Marennes
Description
Known internationally for oyster farming.
Ideal for
Retirees
Food lovers
Advantages
Coastal lifestyle
Smaller community
Excellent seafood
Things to consider
Quieter during winter.
Cost of Living
Compared with many other French coastal departments, Charente-Maritime offers a broad range of living costs.
Property affordability
The most expensive areas include:
La Rochelle
Île de Ré
Prime coastal villages
Better value can often be found around:
Saintes
Rochefort
Inland villages
Smaller market towns
Shopping
Supermarkets are widely available, alongside independent food shops and excellent weekly markets.
Local produce is plentiful and often competitively priced.
Utilities
Utility costs are broadly in line with national averages. Coastal weather usually reduces extreme heating or cooling requirements.
Eating Out
From seafood restaurants to village cafés, there are options for most budgets.
Outside tourist hotspots, dining out generally represents good value.
General Value for Money
Although premium coastal property carries a higher price tag, everyday living remains good value compared with many UK coastal regions.
Healthcare
Healthcare provision is one of the department's strengths.
Main hospitals
Major hospitals are located in:
La Rochelle
Rochefort
Saintes
Royan
These provide emergency care and a wide range of specialist services.
Healthcare availability
Most towns have:
GPs
Dentists
Physiotherapists
Medical centres
Finding a regular GP can take time in some areas, particularly in smaller communities.
Access to Specialists
Larger towns offer specialist healthcare, although waiting times can vary depending on speciality.
Pharmacies
Pharmacies are widespread, with emergency services available outside normal hours through the French rota system.
General Healthcare Considerations
Registering with the French healthcare system as early as possible is advisable. Having complementary health insurance ("mutuelle") is common and helps reduce out-of-pocket costs.
Education
Families relocating to Charente-Maritime have a good range of educational options.
Schools
The department has numerous public and private primary and secondary schools.
Colleges
Further education is available in major towns including La Rochelle, Rochefort and Saintes.
International Options
While international schools are limited within the department itself, bilingual and private education options are available, and international schools can be found in nearby cities such as Bordeaux.
Language Schools
French language schools and adult learning centres are available in La Rochelle and other larger towns, making it easier for newcomers to improve their language skills.
Getting Around
Airports
Nearby airports include:
La Rochelle–Île de Ré Airport
Bordeaux Airport
Nantes Airport
Seasonal international flights increase during summer.
Rail
La Rochelle benefits from TGV services to Paris.
Regional rail links connect many towns throughout the department.
Roads
The A10 motorway provides excellent north-south access.
Roads are generally well maintained.
Public Transport
Bus services operate throughout larger towns, while La Rochelle has an excellent cycling network.
Rural public transport is more limited.
Is a Car Recommended?
Yes.
While city residents may manage without one, a car is highly recommended for exploring the department and for those living outside major towns.
Weekly Markets
Town | Main Market Day |
La Rochelle | Wednesday & Saturday |
Royan | Daily covered market (largest on weekends) |
Rochefort | Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday |
Saintes | Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday |
Marennes | Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday |
Saint-Martin-de-Ré | Daily in season; regular markets year-round |
Jonzac | Tuesday |
Surgères | Tuesday |
Local Food & Drink
Charente-Maritime is renowned for its fresh local produce.
Highlights include:
Marennes-Oléron oysters
Bouchot mussels
Atlantic seafood
Pineau des Charentes
Cognac (nearby production region)
Charentais melon
Goat's cheese
Salt from Île de Ré
Fresh fish
Galette charentaise
Cagouilles (snails)
Local white wines
Things to Do
There is plenty to enjoy throughout the year.
Historic Sites
Historic port of La Rochelle
Fort Boyard (viewing excursions)
Roman remains in Saintes
Rochefort Naval Arsenal
Coastal forts
Outdoor Activities
Sailing
Surfing
Paddleboarding
Cycling
Walking
Birdwatching
Golf
Fishing
Museums
Maritime museums
Naval museums
History museums
Aquarium in La Rochelle
Festivals
Francofolies Music Festival
Maritime festivals
Oyster festivals
Food festivals
Local village celebrations
Nature
Marshlands
Coastal reserves
Beaches
Islands
Forests
Estuaries
Family Attractions
Zoos
Aquariums
Boat trips
Adventure parks
Beaches
Cycling routes
Good to Know Before You Move
Before relocating, consider the following:
Language
While English is spoken in tourist areas, learning French will greatly improve daily life and integration.
Rural Living
Smaller villages can be peaceful but may have fewer shops and services.
Internet
Most towns have excellent broadband, with fibre continuing to expand across the department.
Seasonal Tourism
Coastal towns become significantly busier during the summer months, affecting traffic and accommodation availability.
Climate
Expect mild winters, warm summers and occasional Atlantic storms, particularly during autumn and winter.
Community Life
Local markets, sports clubs, associations and village events provide excellent opportunities to meet neighbours and become part of the community.
Find Trusted English-Speaking Businesses
Whether you're living here, moving here, retiring here or simply spending part of the year here, finding reliable local services can make settling in much easier.
Biz Où? helps you discover trusted English-speaking businesses across France, including property professionals, tradespeople, accountants, healthcare providers, legal services, gardeners, cleaners, holiday services, financial advisers, pet care, marketing specialists and many more.
Every listing is designed to help you connect with businesses that understand the needs of English-speaking residents, making it easier to build your new life in one of France's most popular departments.
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What if the place you’ve been dreaming about is waiting for you in France? A little village where everyone knows your name, a lively market town, a home surrounded by rolling countryside or somewhere completely unexpected. Explore our guides to France’s regions and departments, discover the character, lifestyle and possibilities of each area, and start finding the place that feels like it could be yours. Where will your French story begin?
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